On the eve of independence in South Sudan, I was sitting under trees with a small community of neighbours in an area called ‘High Jerusalem’ The afternoon leading to the evening had an atmosphere I can only describe as high point south african – the sort of feeling we had during our own transition in 1994 and the feeling of the World Cup 2010. I had even heard vuvuzelas. Flags everywhere.
Sitting near the Nile, in the insect dark, we were celebrating a meal. The South Sudanese had decided on this night of liberation that there would be a type of passover seder.Stories of pain, oppression and slavery were followed by stories of hope. Bread was shared, songs and the new national anthem was sung, candles were lit and there was dancing – the quiet, eager dignity of a people set free.
I couldn’t help thinking that this is what we should have done in 1994 – encouraging neighbours to take their time to share stories. But maybe we weren’t ready, with our apartheid living and apartheid minds. Maybe it is something that we can imitate though – a chance to tell stories and listen – not to public hearings, but the personal TRCs among neighbours.
On the day, sitting under the shade reserved for the not quite VVIPs (thankfully so – we didn’t get as burnt as they did…) with a press of bodies around us constantly streaming forward to see this new day, was an experience in humility. For while we were there as guests, friends, donors, supporters, this was not our day.
The Jubilation of seeing the flag raised, the quiet confidence of a new consitiution and country was only outdone, for me, by the ‘hand of god’ moment when the power failed before al bashir could start speaking. When he eventually finished, the crowd gave him a very polite, almost english, clap and then spontaneously stood up and waved him off. Priceless. An unmistakable sign.
al bashir and his policies of Islamicization and Arabification are the latest in the long timeline of the former Sudan’s struggle with identity and centralization. Even before the coup that bought this particular latest calculating genocidal barbarian to power (these words are carefully chosen and used), the dynamic in Sudan had been Khartoum directed. Almost all post-colonial leadership has come from four small ethnic groups – Arab, Islamic, northern.
Powerfully, South Sudan has committed to reverse these tendencies of centralization, coersive religious compliance and a single Arab identity by publically committing to a multicultural, diverse and secular state.
The republic of South Sudan has a long way to go – the lack of development and infrastructure is chronic. Many Southerners who were in the North have fled south to few schools and less opportunity.
But arriving at the very little Airport of Juba, six months after departing after the referendum, clearly shows how great the energy is for explosive growth – South Sudan is a country of enormous potential.
As the Catholic Archbishop of Juba, Paulinus Loro said on welcoming his guests to a certain chaos before the celebrations – we have never been a country before.
OpEd written for the Mercury newspaper.
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